Gas burners for forges furnaces and kilns free download

It uses a small copper MIG contact tip to strengthen the venturi effect that helps to entrain more air. The air to gas ratio is on the order of 28 parts air to 1 part fuel gas, instead of l achieved with previous burners. Of equal importance, is the fact that it can be almost perfectly tuned. This ability to be finely tuned, along with its tendency to run in a balanced fashion through a very wide pressure range, greatly exceeds previous tube burner models.

It also saves fuel and can create more heat than an old style inch burner. The burner is compact and can be used with a miniature fuel hose, called a whip, making it very convenient for handwork.

To make this whip, buy a inch type "T" burning lead oxy-fuel hose at a welding supply store. Separate the fuel line from the oxygen line; they easily pull apart after their brass collars are filed off. The separated fuel line is highly flexible and lightweight. There is a fairly involved construction plan given for the basic inch burner, but someone with a low skill level and without a hand torch can fabricate it.

This model makes a powerful and forgiving hand torch. If you want every last bit of performance that this size burner can put out, add the advanced options. The options make a superb torch, but they require a higher skill level to construct than the basic burner. The advanced options also simplify your hunt for parts.

Please read completely through Chapter 3 before deciding what plan to follow, as this will affect your choice of materials. Every burner in this book features a gas accelerator assembly that is built to a different plan. If you are hindered in finding a needed part for one plan, you may substitute another assembly. Part 3, the choke sleeve, is also shown in perspective next to it. Part 2, the burner body is shown in perspective with parts 4 and 6 attached to it.

Part 14 is shown in two views. Part 13 is shown in four views. Parts 6 through 12 make up all the gasfittings needed to feed gasfrom the hose and control its flow within the burner. Compare the numbers on the illustrated parts with their descriptions on the parts list.

Start with the basic burner by collecting the tools and parts needed. Before you begin buying the materials, it is important to understand that the sizes listed here are the parts' call-out sizes. That is seldom the same thing as their actual sizes. The differences have already been taken into acc0unt. A inch x inch steel angle about six inches long 7 B Hacksaw C inch electrical drill D A 3, 7, 29, two inch, a inch, inch, "N", and letter "Z" drill bit 9 E 4 inch angle grinder with thin cutting wheels and flap disk see Resources F Locking pliers Vise-Grip G Safety glasses H Allen wrenches I x 28 starting tap, x 28 bottoming tap, x 20 starting tap, 8 x 32 starting tap, "T" tap handle, and tapping fluid J 6-inch fine flat file K 8-inch half round medium coarse file optional L inch or smaller rat tail file or round file M Small center punch or prick punch and hammer N Set of torch tip cleaners 0 Dividers optional.

Take this book along when you go shopping for parts. If you can't find a inch ball valve, or if you have trouble finding any of the other parts, the text and drawings will allow a sales clerk to aid you in coming up with a workable alternate plan. For instance, you might want the ball valve to be in line with the accelerator, but everything else is negotiable, all the way back to the fuel hose.

If you can't find a inch ball valve, accept what you can get and readjust the parts list to make the different valve work. A look at Fig. If you can't find a part at your hardware store, look in the yellow pages under steam fitting, scrap yards, hydraulics, plumbing, and heavy equipment repair. The bell reducer part 4 might not be available in inch x inch, but may be available in inch x inch.

The addition of a inch x inch bushing will allow you to continue on with the project the setscrew can be placed in one of the bushing's flats even more easily than in the side of the bell reducer's lip.

The bushing can also be crosscut through its threads to become self-tightening see parts 4B, and 19 shown in fig.

Or, a hex plug can be tightly screwed into the larger bell reducer as a spacer and then drilled through for the inch accelerator pipe. These alternate plans will work just as well as the original. Even if you are shopping by mail, you can fax drawings and other information that will allow people, who know what is available in their parts inventory, to help you. If you still can't find a needed part, then it becomes time to get creative. The publisher came up with his own unique solution to finding accelerator parts.

His description follows: "On the accelerator I used a different method of assembly. I wrapped the MIG tip with a piece of 36 gauge brass tooling foil, inch x inch and slipped it in the nipple, then brazed it. I used self-fluxing brazing rod and it works fine. If finding the parts makes the plan harder to follow than striking out on your own, then become adventurous. You will also find parts and kit suppliers in the Resources. In the introduction, you were promised that this equipment could be built with just hand tools.

Lengthy instructions are given for accomplishing some of the drilling, grinding, and threading in this way. There is no need to bring any building experience to the project, but to use hand tools in the place of machine tools requires extra caution and attention to detail. Now on to the fabrication of the burner. Begin construction of the basic burner by making the burner nozzle.

First, file the burrs off the 1 inch long stainless steel tube part la. This is the nozzle part that affects the flame. Next, deburr the inch long piece of inch diameter steel pipe part lb , and file a small bevel on one outside edge. This is done to help it to slip inside part la. Hand sand the black varnish off its exterior, and file its protruding inner weld seam flat.

When force-fit inside the nozzle tube, this part becomes a spacer, enabling the larger outside tube to fit on the burner's inch pipe.

Place the nozzle on the spacer's beveled edge and rotate it until the two parts come closest to matching each other. You can look down through the nozzle to compare it with the shape of the spacer and easily see where they make the best match. Set the spacer and nozzle on a flat surface with the beveled edge facing up. Hammer the nozzle down over the spacer until their two back edges are even. Drill three holes through the nozzle and its spacer, about evenly separated and inch from their back edges.

Use a 29 drill bit. When you drill stainless steel it is important to use a new sharp bit and to be generous with the tapping fluid. Thread the holes with the 8 x 32 tap. Again, it is necessary to use extra care and lots of fluid when tapping the SS, especially when using a small tap like this. Take your time and do the best you can to start the tap at right angles when it enters the hole.

As soon as the tap starts to thread, stop and have a second look at the part. If the tap is obviously out of true, back it out and try again. You can restart the tap, as many times as needed because it will ream out all the scars from the false starts as it penetrates further into the hole.

Remember to only turn the tap between an eighth and a quarter-revolution at a time. After each forward twist, reverse the motion enough to break the burr off of the forming thread, until you feel the resistance of the tap ease up. At that point your tap work can be accelerated. If you feel the tap start to tighten up, back it out and clean both the hole and tap before trying again.

It isn't a tragedy to break off a tap inside of the nozzle. If this happens, place another hole near the first one and try again. Don't try to reuse the broken tap; throw it away and buy another one.

The tap might be broken off in the hole late in the threading process so that it protrudes into the interior of the nozzle. If this happens, use a small round rod a nail with its point filed flat, etc. With luck, it will loosen sufficiently to allow you to back it out reverse direction of turn with needle nose pliers. In that case you can use the original hole. If the broken tap can't be loosened and backed out, use the same small rod with a hard rap to break off the interior protrusion.

Finish removing the fragment from the nozzle's interior with sandpaper wrapped around the rod as a file. Deburr the inside of the threaded holes and run the set screws into them. Keep the set screws away from the inside edge of the holes so as not to ruin their sharp faces if you need to file the spacer's inside diameter later. The setscrews used in the nozzle are the only ones that are left with sharp ends. The rest have their ends filed smooth.

Otherwise they would badly scar the accelera-. Before going on with the burner construction, you should remove the sharp faces from the rest of the set screws. To do this, place the screws on the end of an Allen wrench to hold them in position; then gently sand their sharp faces off by running them back and forth on sandpaper; or run a fine grade flat file across them.

Preparing the burner body, part 2. The next step is to prepare the body of the burner. Begin by cutting the thread off one end of the inch x inch pipe nipple part 2. Next, use the angle grinder and flap disc to sand down the pipe to a polished finish from the cutoff end up to the beginning of the thread on the other end.

The varnish must be removed along with the rough surface irregularities. File the internal burrs out of the cut-off pipe end for good laminar flow. File the internal burr left by the pipe-threading machine out of the threaded end in order to help provide enough room for the temporary accelerator's coupling to fit within this space later.

File the internal weld ridge flat as possible. Place the nozzle on the burner body and rotate it until the two parts come closest to matching each other.

Ink mark the parts to keep track of this position while you power sand the cutoff end of the pipe for about 1 inches to create a sliding fit with the burner nozzle. This is done with the angle grinder and flap disk. Be sure you have read the grinding directions given in Chapter 1 before starting. Slide the nozzle onto the pipe up to where the inside edge of the inch spacer and inch pipe are even as shown in Fig. Twist the nozzle until it binds on the pipe, but do not tighten the three setscrews twisting the nozzle usually forces it into parallel alignment with the pipe.

Once you are satisfied that these parts are ready to go, remove the nozzle. Do not mount the nozzle on the burner until you begin brazing. Making the basic choke sleeve, part 3. Before you can do anything more on the burner body, make the burner? This can be done with either a slotted part or by threading a hole in the sleeve for the thumbscrew. The threaded hole is easier to make and permits full opening with a shorter choke sleeve on the flared choke, but the slotted part is smoother operating.

To make a threaded hole, measure inch from the choke sleeve's forward edge. Then punch-mark and drill a hole with the 3 bit. Now thread the hole with the x 20 tap. It will be necessary to file down the inside of the weld ridge in the pipe because you are not placing a slot where it is, but you can skip "Step 5" installing the thumbscrew in the burner body as you are placing it on the choke sleeve.

If making a slot, use a piece of inch galvanized pipe, 3-inches long, and file its interior until it slides freely on the burner after making the slot. This is simple work as galvanized pipe often has a larger inside diameter than black-wall pipe, and the layer of galvanizing is soft. Mark a straight line on the inch x 3-inch galvanized pipe. Lay the line out over the pipe's weld seam in order to reduce your internal file work. The small To use it with a scribe, place one edge close beside the layout mark, but not over it.

Move the scribe down the length of the guide. Be careful not to change the angle of the scribe in relation to the edge as you create the parallel line. The light line in its center is made with a scribe.

Measure inch in from the pipe's ends, and center punch. Continue marking and center punching at intervals of inch, and then drill inch pilot holes. Enlarge the holes to inch. Check the slot with the thumbscrew to make sure of a loose sliding fit. Clean up the internal burrs and file down the inch of internal weld seam that remains beyond the slot ends. You can use the thin grinding wheel to quickly remove most of the material between the holes, but avoid trying to grind all the way to the slot ends; that seldom works out well.

Remember to secure the part in a vice before trying this read cautions about handling grinders in Chapter l. Now sand and file both the choke sleeve and the burner tube until the sleeve will slide freely. This amounts to more than half of the burner tube's length.

Remember that both of these pieces of pipe are out of round. Begin the fit by revolving the choke sleeve on the burner tube. Also, reverse the choke sleeve as you work in order to see if it mounts better in the other direction.

This extra experimenting will save a lot of sanding work. One thing that helps you to determine where to sand once the parts begin to fit together, will be the scratch marks which the choke sleeve leaves on the polished tube everywhere that it binds.

The more you look for these indications, the less sanding you will end up doing in order to achieve a good sliding action.

True up the back face of the choke sleeve. Compare it with the Combination Square to check it. Now slide the sleeve unto the threaded end of the burner tube with its trued end facing the thread. After you find a place where the choke sleeve slides freely, use the ink marker to make a line down the length of the choke sleeve's slot while it is sitting in this area. Scribe a line from the thread down through the middle of the inked line.

Leave the ink to remind yourself that this isn't one of the four lines for the rows of holes. Preparing the inch to inch bell reducer, part 4. It is necessary to true up the forward edge of the lip on the bell reducer's large end. This is needed in order to provide a proper seal when the choke sleeve rests against it. It also improves your ability to drill the hole for the accelerator true.

Screw the bell. Grind or file away any high spots, while frequently reassembling the parts for comparison. Place the bell reducer on the sheet of sandpaper to finish flattening its face. Now, use a "z" size drill bit to enlarge the threaded hole on the reducer's small end to hold the accelerator.

Place a chair or five gallon bucket on the floor on which to sit, clamp the locking pliers around the bell reducer just behind the large lip, and place the reducer on the floor in front of you the locking pliers will be set at a slight angle. With one foot on the pliers and the drill bit resting on the reducer, position the drill motor as near to vertical as you can while sitting leaning forward over your work. Rest your arms on your legs. Gently enlarge the existing hole. You will be able to feel the point where the drill bit penetrates the material's far side in time to stop before it drills into the floor.

Having your body braced in this position will give you surprising control over the drill's aim and a good brace against kickback when the bit reaches the far side of the existing hole. So, the bit's tip will scratch a line at the proper place for center punching, as is shown on the right side of the drawing. Next, punch-mark a place in the side of the lip on the reducer's small end for a setscrew. Use the 29 bit and the 8 x 32 tap to thread the hole. When you look at the drawing, notice that the setscrew is placed off-center into the forward edge of the bell reducer's lip.

This is done to insure enough room to keep the screw away from the lip's back edge. Also, make sure the hole is placed far enough back from the forward edge so that the drill bit can run true. To do so, place the 29 drill bit on the bell reducer so that the bit is just back from the lip's forward edge and use it for a scribe; then punch-mark your hole over the scratch mark.

Doing this will keep the bit far enough from the edge of the lip to ensure that it doesn't run off to one side. The larger size of the tap thread will still follow the hole even though it runs into the curve beyond the lip. By screwing the reducer onto the burner tube you can again use your foot to trap the part while sitting over it in a chair.

Even with a small hole, the leverage and control this method gives you is good. If you temporarily slide the nozzle back onto the burner tube while you drill this hole, it is easier for you to keep the drill aimed at right angles with the reducer. Installing the thumbscrew in the burner body, part 5 The time has come to permanently mount the choke sleeve. Therefore, place the sleeve on the inch pipe, centered over the ink line with its squared end against. The reducer should be snug but not screwed down completely tight.

Scribe a cross line in the center of the forward end of its slot for a thumbscrew hole. Remove the bell reducer and choke sleeve.

Center punch the mark, drill a pilot hole with a inch bit, and enlarge the hole with the 3 bit use the same control method as before. Now, thread the hole with the x 20 tap. Clean up the burrs, inside and outside of the tube, with files.

Re-thread the hole this is called chasing the thread. Now re-file the hole. All these steps are needed to get a smooth sliding action on the choke. Reassemble the choke and tighten the thumbscrew. One or two small flat washers are used with the thumbscrew to create a shoulder.

This helps to more effectively lock the choke. Count the number of excess threads inside the burner tube. You must remove the excess thread. To do so, clamp the thumbscrew in the locking pliers, run a x 20 nut down to where you have determined your thread length should end and grind off the excess. Afterward, unscrew the nut and file the burr off the end of its thread. You can use the half round file's edge or the miniature flat file in the tip cleaner set to remove this burr.

Reassemble your parts, tighten the thumbscrew, and file off any excess thread remaining inside the burner tube. Laying out the air openings, part 2. Slide the choke sleeve all the way forward toward the nozzle , lock the thumbscrew, and scribe a line around the burner tube at the sleeve's back edge. Now slide the sleeve all the way back. Screw on the bell reducer until it touches the sleeve. Use the ink marker to make a line on the thread where it meets the lip of the bell reducer.

Remove the reducer and the choke sleeve. Cut a piece of paper about three inches wide and wrap it around the burner tube. Mark the point where it overlaps itself. Draw a line on this point at a right angle; cut off the excess paper and then flatten it out on a table. It's how I learn best so better get them all down as best I can. First things first: I don't have any materials yet as I want to have a concrete blueprint with research done on it before I purchase anything.

Second: the only blacksmithing I have ever done was twist an iron firepoker in a historic forge as a class field trip almost 16 years ago. All that being said I've been interested in doing my own work ever since and only just recently found that I have the ability and time and space to do it at last.

What I have my eyes on is a version of John Emmerlings ribbon burner. For a forge I would like to build a rectangle out of fire bricks. Then line the inside and outside with refractory cement and round it out inside while it's workable. In theory anyway. Feel free to tear apart the design concept and please hit me with the worst of it. If I know all the issues before I start then I may design something better.

For starters I would like to know what connections am I going to need from the propane tank to the burner. What recommendations would you share for choosing a material to transport the propane? And most important what safety features can I add between the propane and the burner? The more the better.

I don't care if it's overkill. I'll have more after but right now it's 2am here in Calgary and I have to be awake again in 4 hours. Do you have a copy of John's ribbon burner plans? Mike and I play mostly with Naturally Aspirated NA burners and a ribbon pretty much needs to be a gun blown burner. I'm sure a ribbon can be made to work with a NA air fuel supply but I haven't messed with one so I'd be speculating.

Your plan for a forge isn't very practical for a couple reasons. All that mud is a serious heat sink and backed by fire brick makes it worse. It's going to need a LOT of fuel just to warm up let alone keep hot. If you used light insulating fire brick the brick will start breaking up quickly due to thermal cycling. It doesn't like large temperature changes quickly, expansion and contraction needs to occur slowly, light brick i pretty darned fragile.

It's never used as the fire contact surface in furnaces and kilns it's always used behind at least one layer of 3,f hard fire brick. You surely don't intend to put " of refractory cement over it. Plastering the outside with refractory is completely unnecessary and a waste of refractory.

It's like painting the inside of the sheet rock. Brick pile forges are a good first forge. They're not terribly efficient but they're easy to alter seeing as they're just stacked bricks. They let you experiment with shape and size before committing yourself to a permanent construction. Swirl isn't the only advantage that they can provide. If an impeller blade is attached at the large end of a funnel or pipe reducer at the burner's year end, a stronger vortex can be produced at the fitting's small end.

The impeller blade doesn't even need to move to get the effect, although a weak fan motor will work wonders. It is a given that a fluid running through a round restriction will form a vortex, but usually so weak a one as to make no practical difference, so that the term swirl or is more appropriate.

But, for every minor increase in power added to a vortex its swirl and other benefit s are greatly magnified. What other benefits? Increase flow of incoming air simultaneously with a large drop in air pressure in that flow; a magic combination that can be found in no other way.

And with that we can move on to jet-ejector burners and their air openings. To begin with jet-ejectors induct more air into a naturally aspirated burner than can be found from a linear style with a rear funnel, unless it is equipped with a fan, and then it is no longer naturally aspirated, even if it is an impeller blade fan.

The way a jet-ejector's multiple air openings create swirl is from twisting into a small part of a turn, as air travels into the burner, just ahead of its mixing tube area; that my be found as part of a single tube shape Mikey burner , or within a larger area built up in part from a reducer fitting and a larger diameter tube section Hybrid burner. It can be made up as two opening on a pipe fitting "T" buner , or even from a single opening Modified Side-arm burner ; all are examples of jet-ejectors.

One fact of life we have to address is DRAG, which is the arch enemy of mixture flow. Any opening through which air flows creates drag as it passes by the air opening's edges, by creating eddy currents. Curved edges create more eddy currents then straight edges; the stronger the curve the greater the eddy currents. Can you think of anything worse for creating drag than lots of little holes? Thus the advantage of just two larger holes in a "T" burner is far superior, and even the offside single hole of a Modified Side-arm burner trump them; this is despite the fact that both of the latter two burners have threaded openings that air must pass through, which threaded side holes don't!

Do we begin to appreciate how powerful eddy currents are at creating drag? Moving in the opposite direction, Rex Price, while still studying burner design with me, sent his version of what he thought he had learned of my ideas; his burner used slots for air openings, instead of my rows of holes, thus combining straight with curved edges; the improvement was remarkable.

Related Booklists. Gerald J. The MIT Press. Eugene M. Since The physicochemical fundamental concepts of chemical equilibrium,. Das, published by Biomass Energy Foundation which was released on Gas Burners for Forges Furnaces Kilns.

Knives by Joe Kertzman. The Art of Firing by Nils Lou. The Home Blacksmith by Ryan Ridgway. Fuels Furnaces and Refractories by J. Christopher Prosser added it May 30, Book ratings by Goodreads. Comments and reviews What are comments? Mohamed Azouz marked gas burners for forges furnaces and kilns as to-read Jan 16, Hugo Mario marked it as to-read Sep 07, Curing and coating the forge. User Review — Flag as inappropriate What more can I say?